Safety razor for men

HOW TO ACHIEVE THE PERFECT GENTLEMAN'S SHAVE

Stylish, economical and safe – safety razors for men are an exciting way to perfect your shave at home. Over a hundred years after their invention, these eco-friendly shaving tools are back in vogue and deliver a close shave. But how do you master this traditional razor? Barber Behar shares his step-by-step guide and explains the benefits of the safety razor.

Admittedly, at first glance, the safety razor for men looks as though it might have come straight from a toolbox. In fact, the design was inspired by the shape of old carpenter’s planes and revolutionised shaving. This is because, in the 19th century, the safety razor was the first alternative to the straight razor, which requires a great deal of practice. “When you unscrew the handle, the head opens and the blades can be clamped into the so-called ‘comb’. They then protrude only slightly, making the shave safer and the contours easier to shape,” says Behar. Once the blades are sharp, the shave can (almost) begin!

The right preparation for the safety razor

As with wet shaving using a straight razor or cartridge razor, preparation is half the battle: “Whilst we use steam and warm towels in the salon, at home you can use a hot shower to open the pores on the desired areas of skin and soften the hair,” explains Behar. Next, a high-quality pre-shave or beard oil provides the perfect base, allowing the blade to glide gently and thus protecting both the skin and the razor.

Freshly whipped shaving foam helps to make the coarse hairs more pliable and protects the skin from irritation. Once the foam has been left to work for a few minutes, it’s time to use the safety razor: in three passes, the beard is first shaved with the grain, then sideways and finally against the grain.

“As the razor is rigid, you must maintain a 45-degree angle throughout,” reveals the professional. Beginners are best advised to hold it at a 90-degree angle initially and adjust the angle using a mirror. Between passes, the razor should be cleaned with water and fresh shaving foam applied. After shaving, the skin needs plenty of care: wash the shaved areas with cold water and moisturise them with an alcohol-free aftershave.

Step-by-step guide to shaving with a safety razor

1. Open the skin pores and soften the beard hairs with a hot shower, warm towels or steam
2. Apply pre-shave or beard oil to create a protective layer for the skin and blade
3. Leave freshly whipped shaving foam on the skin for a few minutes
4. Shave at a 45-degree angle with the grain, sideways and against the grain. Rinse the safety razor in between and apply fresh lather
5. Close the skin pores with cold water and apply an alcohol-free aftershave
6. Take the safety razor apart and clean it thoroughly

A clean job: how to clean your safety razor properly

“One advantage of the safety razor is that it can be taken apart into its individual parts and thus cleaned thoroughly,” explains Behar: “After shaving, I unscrew the handle and clean all parts thoroughly under running water and with a disinfectant, as fine skin flakes and bacteria collect on the blades and in the razor head.” Ideally, the men’s safety razor should then be left to dry on a stand so that it does not pick up new bacteria from surfaces in the bathroom.

Environmental protection when shaving

The safety razor also has a clean environmental footprint: whilst with cartridge razors the entire heads end up in the bin regularly, when shaving with the traditional tool only individual blades wear out. “To ensure your safety razor lasts a long time, it should be made of stainless steel and sit firmly in your hand,” reveals Behar. “Getting good advice before buying a safety razor for men always pays off.” As the blades are cheaper to buy than the replaceable components of cartridge razors, using a safety razor is also easier on the wallet.

The history of the safety razor

It wasn’t just the easier handling compared to a straight razor that helped the safety razor gain its popularity. In the USA, before entering the First World War, the company King Camp Gillette signed a contract with the US Army and supplied GIs with the razors, which were still largely unknown at the time. Of course, the focus was not on a flawless appearance or clean contours; rather, the procedure ensured that gas masks fitted perfectly.

Back home, Americans were unwilling to do without the practical safety razor and triggered a veritable boom, which was only halted by cartridge razors in the 1970s. Yet, thanks to its many advantages, the safety razor for men is now making a comeback.

Are you ready to get your look in shape with a safety razor? Here are master barber Anthony’s tips for a perfect beard!