Straight razor - the holy grail

If you ask me, nothing embodies the barber’s craft better than a straight razor. To master the use of this delicate blade perfectly, you need a great deal of experience, specialist knowledge and a steady hand. But it’s not just my staff who learn how to use this tool – customers often ask me how they can perform this stylish procedure themselves. First things first: anyone who wants to learn the ‘real’ straight-razor shave should be prepared to invest time and patience.

An expensive pleasure

Working with the blades is almost hypnotic: your gaze is drawn to the blade, your eyes following the hand with every movement. Utmost concentration is required; after all, a moment’s inattention can quickly lead to a scar. I use the various blades daily to guarantee the closest shaves and perfect contours. I regularly hear how customers want to buy a model for themselves and browse the internet for offers. But you should quickly forget about the complete set for 50 euros. For a decent set-up, you’ll easily be looking at just under 700 euros.

Why so expensive? It’s the same as always in life: quality comes at a price. You can enjoy a high-quality straight razor for decades – provided you look after it properly. Choosing the right product isn’t that easy, though: a wide variety of materials and shapes are available online, in specialist shops and also in our salons. This can quickly overwhelm potential buyers and makes comprehensive advice essential.

If you have the choice

Before you invest so much money, you should be clear about what kind of shave you want to achieve with a straight razor. Do you need a tool to define your beard contours cleanly and with precision? Then a razor with a so-called ‘Spanish head’ is ideal, as it has a tip that makes it easy to reach even awkward areas. For a full shave, I use a rounded blade, as this leaves far less surface area where I could cut myself.

As well as the blade shape, the feel of the handle is the most important feature. Before buying, you should hold it in your hand at least once, as some handles have very sharp edges, for example. I prefer to work with soft handles that feel comfortable in the fingers. There are also significant differences in the material of the blades: stainless steel, for example, is easier to clean and doesn’t rust, whilst carbon is sharper. Incidentally, we have the razors from Eric:Barbier made to our specifications in Solingen.

Slowing down in the bathroom

Perhaps the most important point regarding this particular form of grooming: allow plenty of time. Unlike safety razors, electric shavers and cartridge razors, this procedure requires patience. You must enjoy the shave and turn it into a ritual. To prepare, it is best to apply beard oil to soften the hair and coat the skin with a protective layer over which the blade can glide. Lathering up the shaving soap and carefully applying it to your face and neck with a good brush also takes a few minutes. The blade should be sharpened on a leather strop the day before.

A full shave is carried out in three steps: after a first pass in the direction of hair growth, turn the razor 90 degrees for the second pass, before finally removing the remaining stubble against the grain. The same procedure is always followed between each pass: wash, lather, and carry on. When you’re finished, close the skin pores with cold water and apply a good aftershave. After a thorough clean, the blade must be honed and oiled again. The whole process takes time – and is truly a moment of slowing down in our fast-paced world.

Are you up for it?

It’s not easy to style yourself this way. But it’s a pleasure. Once you’ve mastered the individual steps, it’s actually really fun. A few years ago, I bought myself a beautiful straight razor with a genuine mammoth tusk handle – and I look forward to the intensive procedure all over again every time.

Whilst some customers are really proud of the scars from their first attempts, I always recommend having professionals show you the correct technique. We therefore also offer personal courses. Do you dare to try shaving with a straight razor? Just speak to me in our salons in Hamburg and I’ll show you the supreme art of shaving.

Yours, Anthony